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Author Topic: Shallow cuts  (Read 5446 times)
docdiamond
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« on: March 18, 2009, 11:49:44 AM »

Hello!
I have been reading about "shallow" cuts on the internet. It seems as though some people opt for this so that the diamond width is increased for the same carat weight. However, I understand this makes the diamond less brilliant. All the examples and diagrams I have seen have related to brilliant cut diamonds. My question is, do people ever get other diamond shapes (e.g. princess, oval, etc..) cut in an extra shallow form?
Thanks very much for any help! :-)
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Mrs Mitchell
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« Reply #1 on: March 18, 2009, 01:00:09 PM »

Interesting question! I'm all for a bigger looking diamond lol.  I'm no expert, but I think it depends on the shape of the stone - for example, there are some lovely daussi cushion cuts that are quite shallow and they look amazing.  A round brilliant would possibly be a very different animal in this context.

Well, that was the amateur answer. Let's get you the professional answer now, shall we? Grin

 david

Are you looking at a particular stone?

Jen
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« Reply #2 on: March 18, 2009, 01:37:01 PM »

Great question Docdiamond!
A pet peeve of mine is the plethora of information you can find online.
The problem is that information that, taken in context, might be useful, is extremely misleading when taken out of context.

The depth of a diamond is a good example.
If we're talking about a modern round brilliant, the range of acceptable depths is rather narrow.
Say, 58%-63%. If we stray too far from these depths, it will be painfully obvious, as the diamond won't look like a pretty diamond.
To speak in rough terms, if it's too deep, the center of the stone is noticeably dark. Too shallow and you get a ring inside the diamond that looks like a "Fish Eye"
If we're talking about round diamonds specifically, the pundits have found ways to argue about the subtle differences within the acceptable ranges.

Once we broaden the conversation to include Fancy shaped Diamonds, the range of acceptable depths becomes vastly more inclusive.
A cushion might look amazing with a depth of 50%, or a depth of 75%.
Again, speaking in rough terms, if we are comparing two 5.00carat diamonds- one 50% depth, the other 75%, the more shallow stone should have a larger spread- meaning it will look like a larger diamond.
Without question, a diamond can be too shallow- but there's really no hard fast rules on this.
If there's a problem with the cut, it will be easily visible to an observer.

Now, if we take the other side of this coin, and consider it from a shopper's perspective, it gets even more convoluted.
Your question was the following:
My question is, do people ever get other diamond shapes (e.g. princess, oval, etc..) cut in an extra shallow form?
Thanks very much for any help! :-)

I can see you've been reading up on this- and your question is natural based on a lot of what's written.
The reason it's not really accurate is that it would seem to suggest that the cutter is choosing to cut a particular diamond shallow, or deep.
But the fact is that the rough diamond is what will determine the cutter's actions.
If we compare to real estate, I can use an analogy.
Say there's a piece of land. Let's say the land has a hill on it.
The smartest architects will build a house using the "lay of the land"
When the cutter is deciding how to cut the rough diamond he must also consider what God has created- and using it to it's best advantage.
Remember that a 10carat rough diamond may polish out to a 6carat polished diamond- the rest is gone forever. That means a cutter needs to consider how to balance wasting as little as possible, while creating a beautiful well cut diamond people will want to buy.
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« Reply #3 on: March 18, 2009, 01:42:00 PM »

PS- we love well cut fancy shaped diamonds in the lower depths.

For example, this is a 5.38 with 53.3% depth that looks, to my eye, amazing , in terms of cut.
It's also the dimensional size of many a 7 carat cushion on the market today.....
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GracefulLion
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« Reply #4 on: March 18, 2009, 01:57:59 PM »

My mom has a 3.5 ct light orangey yellow marquise (graded by GIA) with a 49% depth.  I think it is awesome!!!  It sparkles like crazy and appears to be well over 4 cts.



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Diamondsbylauren
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« Reply #5 on: March 18, 2009, 02:22:36 PM »

HOLY MACKAREL!!!

I'm calling dibs on that one!!!
Looks a lot bigger than 4cts to me.....
I would never have guessed the color grade....
really nice GL.....
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docdiamond
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« Reply #6 on: March 18, 2009, 02:24:01 PM »

Thank you so much for all your detailed interesting answers, and the beautiful illustrative photos! This greatly appreciated. I am trying to understand the field properly! :-)
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Mrs Mitchell
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« Reply #7 on: March 18, 2009, 04:03:09 PM »

Docdiamond, glad you found us! I hope you'll stick around, there are often some unusual diamonds pop up here, and I've learned a lot.

GL, that stone is stunning. I remember when you sent it to GIA - the colour was a surprise! It's lovely.

David, I love the style of that cushion. It has real charm and personality. I'd make that into the world's most amazing split shank solitaire if it was mine.

Jen
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Mikla
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« Reply #8 on: March 18, 2009, 04:12:43 PM »

What about older cuts, like the OMC, which I find are generally deeper?  Are they darker in the center?

Mikla
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« Reply #9 on: March 18, 2009, 04:37:21 PM »

GL:  wow2 woohoo wow2

Docdiamond, for what it is worth, I always figure anything goes when looking at fancy shapes. For me anyway, there are no rules. Unlike RBs, there are just so many variables, it is impossible to say that any particular stone will "perform" or not "perform" simply based upon measurements. That's what makes it exciting... each stone has its own distinct personality. So, when it comes to fancies, I take each stone individually. Shallow could be great... shallow could be not-so-great, I've seen it go both ways. Regardless, I can say that when I'm shopping and I see a diamond that faces up large for it's weight, I ALWAYS give it my full attention...  Wink
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Diamondsbylauren
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« Reply #10 on: March 18, 2009, 04:50:39 PM »

What about older cuts, like the OMC, which I find are generally deeper?  Are they darker in the center?

Mikla

Good question Mikla!
One of the aspects of Fancy Shapes that makes them so interesting, also make them better for cutting, in some ways.
For example, the cutter is handcuffed with a round- it has to look a certain way.
Fancy Shapes can have large facets in places you can't put them on a round. This allows the cutter a lot more freedom to cut a stone with great life- regardless of the depth.
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« Reply #11 on: March 19, 2009, 12:48:07 AM »

another posting blooper. I need sleep... lolz.
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« Reply #12 on: March 19, 2009, 01:01:26 AM »

GL - that's a splendid looking marquise!  What's the L/W ratio? 2.0? I love its proportions.  Smiley

If brilliance is a function of internal light reflections/refractions within a diamond, then it really depends on how the angles of the pavilions, facets and table enable light to bounce off each other. As I understand it, the Daussi cushion has a much shallower depth compared to more conventional cushion brilliants, or even the Asscher cut. They have a different appeal compared to the Round Brilliant.

That 5.38ct Daussi happens to be one of my favorites. In fact I had it as a screen background on my desktop for a while.  Roll Eyes  I'll share my views of a Daussi shallow cut's 'brilliance' as soon as I receive my R2837.  Wink
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Mrs Mitchell
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« Reply #13 on: March 19, 2009, 04:06:35 AM »

Mmm, the 5.38 is an amazing looking diamond, isn't it? I'd have to sell an organ, but it might just be worth it! Grin

Jen
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docdiamond
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« Reply #14 on: March 19, 2009, 09:53:07 AM »

I'm finding it interesting reading all your replies :-) Thank you!
It's a nice group here! Are you all jewellers?
I am trying to write some articles on diamonds as precious gems for my partner's website. He knows quite a bit about the "physics" of diamonds and wants me to research the gem side of things for the website. I think I will be able to learn a lot from this forum :-)
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« Reply #15 on: March 19, 2009, 11:33:02 AM »

I'm finding it interesting reading all your replies :-) Thank you!
It's a nice group here! Are you all jewellers?

I believe most of the people here are jewelry lovers, and certainly jewelry experts....I am a jeweler...
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David
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« Reply #16 on: March 19, 2009, 12:29:53 PM »


It's a nice group here! Are you all jewellers?

Most of us are just, let's say, obsessive-compulsive magpies.   Grin Grin Grin

We love diamonds, and like learning about them.
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DiamondHunter
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« Reply #17 on: March 19, 2009, 12:48:17 PM »

Welcome aboard Doc!  Cool I'm not a diamond expert nor a jeweler but I'm a quick study and do have an eye for aesthetics. Wd love to read your articles. Esp since I can't seem to find much technical analysis on cuts other than round brilliants... 
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docdiamond
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« Reply #18 on: March 19, 2009, 01:20:40 PM »

Thanks DiamondHunter!
I'm afraid his knowledge is more about the crystal structure of diamond and what makes it a good semiconductor. Maybe he knows about how the structure affects how light interacts with diamonds of various cuts, I'm not sure. I will ask! :-)
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« Reply #19 on: March 19, 2009, 01:44:52 PM »

Welcome aboard Doc!  Cool I'm not a diamond expert nor a jeweler but I'm a quick study and do have an eye for aesthetics. Wd love to read your articles. Esp since I can't seem to find much technical analysis on cuts other than round brilliants... 


I don't believe that there will ever be a practical way to standardize fancy shapes.....and thank goodness for that!
In the case of round diamonds, it's led to a shift towards cutting stones that are preferred by a very vocal group.
Personally, I feel that the "Ideal" cut diamonds that I'm speaking of are horribly mis-named.
There are other variations on the cut that seem, at least to my eye- to be prettier. So the word "Ideal" is basically prostituted into making it seem like a 57% table is somehow "better" than a 60% table.
It's not.

IN Fancy Shapes, it's already happened that AGSL is grading the cut of princess cuts.
The result? Stones that look 75% as large as non ideal cut princess cuts-at a substantial price premium.
Is that progress or what?


The beauty of a well cut diamond truly transcends numbers- just as we don't count the brushstrokes on a Van Gogh
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Mrs Mitchell
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« Reply #20 on: March 19, 2009, 01:51:06 PM »

David, that made me smile - there are probably people out there who would not only count the brush strokes but would tell you why you ought to do that as a matter of course when you buy art. Heck, they'll probably invent a machine that will scan artwork and tell you how many brush stokes there are and at what angle...


Jen
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« Reply #21 on: March 20, 2009, 09:11:24 AM »

David, you're an artist (thank God for that!). And I for one would rather leave the creation of 'beauty' in the hands of artists than with a bunch of scientists or statisticians.

If everybody were to sport diamonds of 'ideal' proportions, they may as well be getting them from diamond factory production lines as opposed to skilled jewelers. As David pointed out, categorising cuts could simply be a means towards greater market segmentation and pricing differentiation. It allows for easier value/cost comparison but really should not to be used to gauge a diamond's beauty.

Personally I'm more interested in how light interact with a diamond's angles and depth to create a certain look in fancy cuts.

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« Reply #22 on: March 22, 2009, 11:21:56 PM »

Perhaps there are just too many diamonds. Pages of websites giving you statistics on stones that no one has seen with advice on how to judge. If there were fewer stones we would be more accepting of differences and aware of personality. Try finding a perfect 2 carat round cut alexandrite,  I would gladly have a shallow cushion windowed one instead as I'm sure it exists. Own what you fall in love with, or get a perfect mail order bride.
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« Reply #23 on: March 29, 2009, 11:37:44 AM »

That's the advantage of choosing with your eyes instead of trying to decipher numbers from a GIA report.
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« Reply #24 on: March 29, 2009, 12:46:03 PM »

Perhaps there are just too many diamonds. Pages of websites giving you statistics on stones that no one has seen with advice on how to judge. If there were fewer stones we would be more accepting of differences and aware of personality. Try finding a perfect 2 carat round cut alexandrite,  I would gladly have a shallow cushion windowed one instead as I'm sure it exists. Own what you fall in love with, or get a perfect mail order bride.
I don't believe there are too many diamonds...but maybe too many opinions.
Preferences spoken as they are written in stone physics.

I can see your point about Alexandrites- since they are so very rare, people might be more open minded about their beauty.

Don't dismay though- over the years we've found that many people love to look at a diamond based on artistic, rather than pseudo scientific parameters.
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