How do you decide?

[dovesgate]

I keep coming back to look at the new 5ct yellow ring. I am soooo loving the OMB melee - it is just to die for. And then I noticed the split shank where the tiny melee turns into larger melee where the split meets - just wow. I love details like that! This ring is definitely the latest entry into my "Inspiration" file.

For those of you who have designed jewelry, how did you go about the process? Did you already know specifically what you want or did you have an extensive collection of pictures you liked that you submitted for amalgamation? Or did you just visit numerous brick and mortar stores to decide what styles you like?

Have your tastes changed over the years? Do you still love your early pieces as much as your newest?

[oldmancoyote]

I keep coming back to look at the new 5ct yellow ring. I am soooo loving the OMB melee - it is just to die for. And then I noticed the split shank where the tiny melee turns into larger melee where the split meets - just wow. I love details like that! This ring is definitely the latest entry into my "Inspiration" file.

For those of you who have designed jewelry, how did you go about the process? Did you already know specifically what you want or did you have an extensive collection of pictures you liked that you submitted for amalgamation? Or did you just visit numerous brick and mortar stores to decide what styles you like?

There's three aspects to the process I go through when thinking of a new piece:

1. What sources to use as inspiration. This can be any of those you mention above, a new stone hitting the DBL screen, a piece of jewellery seen once (not necessarily a photo), something else like a flower or pattern of light or architectural element, or...

2. How to combine "external" inspiration and creativity to come up with the design you like. That's the point where letting go of concerns about your drawing skills is useful - sketch things, talk to David or someone that knows about jewellery design about your sketches, and come up with a final idea based on a drawing or sketch. The more details, the better (colours, angles, 3D position of stones, etc.) - you'd be surprised how many places there are for a design to come out different from what you expect

3. What technical and financial constraints need to be taken into account to come up with the "real" design. Which of course happens interactively: don't be afraid to push for your ideas; very often things that people think are impossible or very expensive to do turn out not to be so once they try them in reality.

Not sure if this answers your question, but perhaps it is useful.

Have your tastes changed over the years? Do you still love your early pieces as much as your newest?

Yes and no - our tastes have definitely become more demanding and "refined" in the sense of narrowing down what it is that we really like, but the general traits (form above materials; bold designs; preference for 1920-30s) have remained the same.

There isn't a single piece (actually, perhaps one) that I would not buy again, but there are several ones that I would not buy again at the price I paid the first time. My awareness of "value" in jewellery has evolved considerably.

[clgwli]

For those of you who have designed jewelry, how did you go about the process? Did you already know specifically what you want or did you have an extensive collection of pictures you liked that you submitted for amalgamation? Or did you just visit numerous brick and mortar stores to decide what styles you like?

It took me forever to reset my e-ring into what it is today.  I simply could not decide what I liked best.  I did try on certain styles in person but I never really found things I liked.  I did a lot of mock ups in photoshop during this time and eventually I decided to try a double bezel.  I always loved halos, but that much micro pave in my life really didn't feel like a good choice for me with a ring I wear daily.  So for me it was more about going through photos and trying out styles on my ring to decide.  I knew I wanted something to fit flush with a wedding band but that's all I knew for a long time.  I'm rather indecisive so it took almost a year for me to decide.

Obviously budget for me helped drive me to pick something I knew I could afford, but in general I have more simple tastes so my settings I love usually aren't too elaborate.

Have your tastes changed over the years? Do you still love your early pieces as much as your newest?

Not really for me.  I have always been drawn to the same styles over and over.  I'm very classic in my tastes.  I like dainty yet sturdy looks.  In fact my tastes have changed so little that things I told myself I could love, I wound up hating.  That's sort of why I ditched an all yellow gold wedding set I had.  I got it to match my husband and hated it after a few years.

Only thing that has changed for me is sometimes when I try something on me that I love in pictures winds up sometimes being something I don't like on my hand.  Just doesn't look right.  Same with clothing though.  Looks great on the hanger but not so good on me kind of thing.  I have opened to certain colors of diamonds that I had an original dislike for... but that is more of a letting go of "issues" from childhood than anything else LOL (like in my case I hated pink because I was forced to wear it so much - same with busy florals... I still haven't gotten over that even though I am good with pink now)

I seem to be drawn to the same items over and over again so I know what I love hasn't changed all that much.  I will say trying things on really does help.  It made me realize I could totally rock that pink and yellow diamond uber flower ring

[Trinkette]

What a bizarre thing has happened! OMC, your ears have been burning, I just KNOW it.

This past weekend I've been conversing with a dear DBL friend about jewelry design (as part of the agonizing, yet iconic topic: "Which DBL piece should I purchase?" (Um... not me... her, btw).

Anyway, she and I both have a history of gravitating to "materials" over "form," with the idea that we can "always" reset a beloved stone into something custom-designed down the road (code word for when we can afford to do so... which could be NEVER, in my case, lol!). And, since this "buy now, reset later" plan is something she is considering with at least one of her DBL ring "finalists," I thought I'd shake things up a bit with her. I brought-up two stories:

1) A wonderful jeweler friend of mine, in the business all her life, working and managing in her family's jewelry store in a very frou frou community, wears one of THE most exquisite rings, featuring filigree in platinum and yellow gold, natural blue diamond, and more, that I have ever had the pleasure to see. Easily, this piece is museum-worthy. She designed it herself, and it was handmade by a very talented artist who used to work for her family. HER words to me, just last year, were that for her, a great piece of jewelry is all about the DESIGN and FORM, especially the metalwork and crafting of the piece.

2) Study the Coyote Collection. Not only is there an effort to collect pieces that coordinate together with each other (jewelry in the color orange, for example), but there is also a decided emphasis on design/period style, quality of design, and quality of craftsmanship... all these things are considered first, over perfection of stones, or even any one center stone. The total sum of the parts, both within the individual pieces as well as the collection as a whole, is much more valued than any one component. Again, DESIGN and FORM.

It cracks me up, OMC, that here today, you've expressed this in your post above when you write "form above materials."

 

[Trinkette]

I have too many loose stones floating around in the jewelry box to talk authoritatively about designing my own jewelry. However, I CAN say that my very favorite DBL piece is the least pricey of my DBL rings and was my first... a simple design, it is well crafted, fits perfectly, is very comfortable to wear (comfort is EXTREMELY important to me); feels of significant heft (another important trait for me) and the colors of both stones and metals please and flatter me. Interestingly, singly, NONE of the stones in the piece set my heart on fire. It wasn't until they came together that something happened... to me, they look to have been made for one another. This IS a custom piece, done when I had NO idea what I liked... David, who didn't know me at the time (ahhh, the good old days before Trink, he's probably sighing!), somehow ferreted out the information, and, still, many years later, I can say that he made the PERFECT piece for me. It is the benchmark for which I judge all others because by comparison to later DBL rings, it has taught me my preferences. I even know who actually crafted the ring... and I can tell differences between this ring and others of similar design style related to decisions made by the artist.

Yes, the differences lie in the details. Knowing your preferences goes a long way toward ensuring you have the ultimate custom design.

Lesson learned is: as in any great three-dimensional design, along with form comes function. You may design the most stunning ring in the world, but, if the band cuts into your finger, or the ring keeps spinning on your hand, or its overall shape is not flattering to you hand, the design is not functioning for YOU. It is not a pleasure to wear, is it? And, ultimately, isn't our own pleasure (in seeing/wearing/collecting) what we seek when we purchase/build jewelry?

[oldmancoyote]

Happy to report that my ears aren't smouldering anymore. Though I have to say that yesterday in the middle of the snowstorm (we have about 1 inches on the ground here in the "lowlands" - about time!!!) I didn't particularly notice.

Trinkette is (as usual) making some important points about jewellery as art (or design) and as a functional piece of ornament. Positions that - some of you may be interested - were effectively those of the great jewellers of the 1920s: Georges and Jean Fouquet, Raymond Templier, Suzanne Belperron, René Boivin, Gerard Sandoz, Jean Després, ... who were trained professionally during the Arts & Crafts / Art Nouveau times, and tried to take the "craftsmanship" ethos of those movements into a new dimension, proposing that effectively jewellery should not just be "honest craftsmanship", but "honest art" (my definition, with apologies to René Lalique and the Falize brothers, who would have probably said this 30 years earlier).

[Mrs Mitchell]

Oh damn. I just wrote out a whole novel here and managed to lose it somehow. I need to feed a hungry little kid, so I'll be back later to see if I can add anything here. I doubt it though, Trink and OMC have pretty much covered it. 

My best tip - look at the Coyote Collection! Not the pieces themselves, so much as how the whole thing fits together, how the quality of the craftsmanship stands shoulder to shoulder with the quality of the stones and how the whole is greater than the sum of the parts.

You also need a Trinkette - a critical friend who knows you tastes and understands what will work with your style and lifestyle, but can separate your likes and dislikes from his or her own. Someone who can say wait on this, don't pull the trigger, because last time we spoke, you didn't care for X Y or Z and this piece has one of them...

I would say, one of the things that drew me to DBL in the first place is the fact that there is always someone here to advise. Whether you want to talk over a new piece on CDI or discuss it one to one with David (or me, I'm always excited to get involved in a project, and I know Elaine is too) you'll speak with someone who understands how important it is to you and who shares your excitement about the project. Of course, if the worst comes to the worst, we do have an excellent return policy. It's just so hard to pull the trigger sometimes, and hard to know what you're going to want years down the line. Sometimes you can experiment with a fun piece, or a less significant 'just because' piece, but for a big purchase, or a purchase to mark a life event, there's a lot of assistance here for you to get it just exactly right.

BTW, Trinkette is a saint. There really was a PITA client who could not make a freaking decision already. The sort that everyone dreads....

[firegypsy]

I haven't had much of a budget to work with (more's the  pity!) but I certainly will echo the same statement as above.  For me the metal work is the most important aspect.  I can see both sides of the coin but I actually did tell David some time ago in an online conversation that I am much more the person that will buy the most breathtaking setting I can find, put forth my whole budget for it and then stick a lowly sim in it.  He asked if it was really worth it to purchase a $4000 setting and put a $200 stone in it.  For me it would be, if I only had a $4k budget and the setting I loved was that much.  I'd rather have the craftsmanship any day of the week.  Of course I want lovely stones too, but the metal comes before that for me.  I can always upgrade the stones, but the piece of jewelry is the foundation. 

Even with a very modest budget I'm a customer for life here.  The three pieces I have are so well made, I feel blessed to have them.  You can pay so much more elsewhere for inferior quality and have a similar look.  Similar that is, if you aren't detail oriented!  It didn't take me long to realize that I am a person that prefers to have just a handful of pieces of incredible quality than a drawer full of mediocre quality.  Even if I can only do one piece every year or two, they will be pieces that make my heart flutter.  Pieces that I am proud to show other people.  I love the reaction I get when people handle my two rings!

As far as design?  For me I look to the 16th century all the way up to the early 20th century in both Europe and the US.  I love art deco pieces, but I also love looking at fine art and seeing pieces that just glowed on various monarchs throughout history.  Luscious gems and sparkling diamonds in rich, glowing gold is what gets my heart pumping.  I fell in love with my DBL ruby ring because it looked like it could have been worn by someone in the Tudor court.

My tastes have always been the same.  I have pretty much always had an eye for the styles I love.  I now have the maturity to know that I'll be happier sticking to those styles than buying something "in fashion" or "practical."  For me?  Beauty is the only requirement!  IF I stick to what I love I will likely always love it!

[dovesgate]

The craftsmanship aspect is why I am looking into having the piece designed. You're absolutely correct that I could purchase a setting that is extremely similar to DBL styles for a lower price but for this I want something that will stand the test of time and me examining it from every angle on a regular basis. Hopefully this will be something that my children will want to pass down for generations.

I do look to the Coyote collection for inspiration. Even my children will sometimes ask me to scroll back up to look at this piece or that. I never really thought about having a similar quality of craftsmanship and stone being what gives the collection it's cohesion but it makes sense. 

I really ought to have my collection thread in "Show Off Your Jewels" forum deleted because for one reason or another (mostly realizing I don't wear it or love it as much as I thought I would) I have sold off most of it. I am down to my original wedding set (Walmart specials 9 years ago - no lie and please dont laugh as we were young, poor, and pregnant. Thank God our circumstances are much better now),my Deco OEC wedding ring that I wear daily, my early Deco ruby ring (thanks to OMC for dating it for me), a few different pendants that were gifts, and various costume jewelry pieces for my girls to play dress up with. I haven't ever been much of an expensive jewelry person so now that I have the stone, I want something that really has that wow factor. Of course, a good story would be nice for posterity too!

Mrs. Mitchell, I am afraid I am also going to be a total PITA customer. I've decided not to send my stone off to David until I have a good idea of what I want and some money to go with it so as to mitigate some of that PITA quality. Hopefully the rest of you won't mind me obsessing.

If it isn't against forum policy, can anyone recommend brick and mortar stores in LA or Las Vegas that would have a good collection of rings ranging from antique styles to modern (but really, mostly antique) so I can go play and get a good idea of what I will like on my hand?

[oldmancoyote]

Happy to report that my ears aren't smouldering anymore. Though I have to say that yesterday in the middle of the snowstorm (we have about 1 inches on the ground here in the "lowlands" - about time!!!) I didn't particularly notice.

Whoops - sorry, that was "about 18 inches", which for a day of snowfall isn't bad. 1 inch is "a coverlet to cool hobbit's toes".

Dovesgate - please mail me.

[dovesgate]

I am much more the person that will buy the most breathtaking setting I can find, put forth my whole budget for it and then stick a lowly sim in it. 

I understand this completely. That's how my ruby came to be; I saw the setting and told my husband I would really, really like it. My ruby is natural but I know it isn't the best quality out there.

I fell in love with my DBL ruby ring because it looked like it could have been worn by someone in the Tudor court.

I understand this completely as well! One of these days I would like a ring very similar to yours but with an amethyst and pearls. Those are my daughter's birthstones and I think that configuration would be lovely.

[ah2bqat]

I'm pretty simplistic in my technique.

I find something I like, poke at it until I'm certifiable, and then ship the whole mess to OMC to determine 'doable' vs 'cost ineffective' vs 'weak engineering'.  By the time he is also certifiable (the man has the patience of a saint!), we have a design I can ship off to David.

Then it's a matter of refining the  process and adding in the factors of cost, availability, and detailed accuracy.  Even with detailed sketches, you might be surprised by the final product.  Don't get me wrong - it will be beautiful, functional, and fun to wear; but the design might be tweaked from the original sketches a bit.  This is not necessarily a bad thing.

 ...and,  the more intricate the design, the longer it will take to do.  The factory elves will sometimes put the more complex (aka unique) jobs at the back of the queue.  Can't say as I blame them.  I prefer to get the easy stuff out of the way so I can have time to get the feel of a more complex task.  Only 1 problem.  The elves never get that extra time.  DBL is ALWAYS busy.  So have patience, and try not to go crazy more than once a month during the wait. 

[Mrs Mitchell]

Dovesgate, there is no way on earth you could be more of a PITA client that I am. Don't give that a second though! I'm hopeless. I dither, change my mind, change it back again, dither some more... really, David has the patience of a saint. I know just how it is, so feel free to email / call and I'd be delighted to go through some  of the process with you anytime. 

[clgwli]

Dovesgate, there is no way on earth you could be more of a PITA client that I am. Don't give that a second though! I'm hopeless. I dither, change my mind, change it back again, dither some more... really, David has the patience of a saint. I know just how it is, so feel free to email / call and I'd be delighted to go through some  of the process with you anytime. 

I'm no better than Mrs. M here I think.  Absolutely hopeless as well and I can imagine David would want to bang his head on his desk more than once with me.  Always feel free to talk it out with us here on in e-mail.  Trust me I am so bad too!

[dovesgate]

I'm pretty sure I don't want it set in a solitaire setting but then I can't help thinking of all the ring guard possibilities I could be doing- after all, I could have endless style possibilities and lots of great gift ideas fir my family!

It is possible to have a more delicate version of this:
http://rockdiamond.c...-beautiful-cut-r3587

Something like slender prongs underneath but with the bezel around the stone itself? Like I said, I don't think this is what I want but it is a possibility for a temporary setting.

I finally had a chance to talk to my husband about the setting he gave me and the fact that I dont like it nor does it fit the stone. So now the hunt is on.